Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Home Sweet Home

Oh, there is nothing so sweet as coming home.  So good to see Brad and catch him up on details of life that are not mentioned long distance.  To hear of Tyler's life with all of the vivid description he supplies in the wee hours of the morn when he's most awake.  And to track down Larkyn to listen for tone and discover what she is actually thinking.  Then there is sleeping in my own, wonderfully cozy bed.  When the kids were growing up, they always believed that our bed was the very best bed in the world.  Brad and I figured it was the chatting, stories and snuggling.  But, it actually is the bed :)

Just got back from yoga and all is right with the world.  A lovely cup of Earl Grey from England.  The sun is shining.  The ocean is sparkling.  The birds are chirping.  The cherry blossoms and daffodils are in bloom.  Gardeners are trimming hedges and moving lawns.  New beginnings.  new perspective.  So nice to come back to Spring in Kits.

Accessible Museums in England

Museums in England

The range of choice to learn about human culture is vast.  However one of the things that is most striking is the effort to make it accessible to everyone in England.  The fact that you can walk into The National Gallery or The Tate Modern for free is a credit to the government itself. The fact that you pay to access visiting shows ties the costs directly to covering the costs of the exhibit.    It is interesting that Canada and the United States are supposedly the great democratic unions that do not carry the same hierarchical structure that exists in England.  And yet, our cultural learning is available only at a cost.  The best that we can hope for are reduced student rates or family memberships.  At best this creates a greater access but not an equitable access.

The last time I was in England, I was 17 years old and I had just graduated from Magee Secondary School.  As you would expect, how I viewed "art" was from an entirely different perspective.  Having always been of the journalist bent, I can remember or read my journal entries about my interpretations as I stood in front of "famous" paintings, sculptures, or architecture.  The interpretation after having walked the path of ultimate joy and ultimate despair lends itself to an entirely different viewing.  It certainly creates a good case for regular access throughout the formative years and beyond in the grant quest to create meaning in our lives.

I overheard one of the docents asking the group of young students in The National Gallery, which was their favourite painting so far.  She made it very clear that they didn't have to have a reason.  They needed to just respond as opposed to creating a rationale framed on "expert interpretations" for their choice.  When our children were young, they regularly attended sessions at The Place Des Art in the COQ and Super Sunday Family Day at the Vancouver Art Gallery.  By the time they were 6 and 8 years old and trekking through the galleries of Italy,  they considered themselves artists and would seriously pour over their drawing books and provide their response to what they were seeing.  As young adults, they are not as tied to the convention of a "right or wrong" or even a need to rationalise their thoughts or feelings or response.  I think it is something that is quite freeing and has allowed them to express themselves without adherence to external expectation.  Tyler it plays out directly in his studies.  For Larkyn is plays out in her art as she expresses her feelings.

Tea Time in England

Tea Time

Darlene managed to book reservations (due to a last minute cancellation) for us to have tea at Claridge's months ago.  This lavish affair is the site of important birthdays, meetings girlfriends and out of town guests, and a lovely place to take Mummy.  Certainly a very civilised affair.  A huge Murano glass chandelier adores the main room and photos of very young guests such as Audrey Hepburn, Yule Brenner, Princess Margaret et al.., adorn the walls.

We started out with champagne- brut or pink.  This was followed by our selections of tea and a plate of finger sandwiches:  smoked salmon, egg, chicken and cucumber.  I believe because we ate ALL of the sandwiches, another plate was promptly delivered.   Then came the hot cross buns, scones (raisin, apple, plain) with jam and clotted cream, and selection of cakes and tarts.  Yes, the amount of food was excessive and there was no need for dinner.

What I love about tea time in England, is the opportunity to just sit.  It is the prompt to slow down and relax.  Due to this pause, it is also a marvellous time to people watch.  When I was in high school drama, my friend, Carla Smith, and I did the famous tea time scene from The Importance of Being Ernest".  It felt like we had entered this microcosm of British class based society.  One older mother was sitting kitty corner to us with her two grown daughters.  The roles that each played in the family was abundantly clear and the disdain palpable.  All around the room, you could observe a variety of mini series in play.  Good fun.

I particularly enjoyed the daily ritual of Cream Tea.  Choice of your favourite tea (Earl Grey for me), two scones with butter, jam and Devonshire (clotted cream).  Not two much food but a nice little snack and still some time to walk it off.  It certainly made me think of my daughter, who is the queen of the perfect scone.  It was also a necessary way to warm up in the frosty weather of England this Spring.  Hard to believe the flowers and trees were in full bloom last year.

Shopping in London

Shopping In London

There are so many varied opportunities to shop in London.  We are staying very close to The High Street Kensington Station on the Circle Line.  Nice main street just down from Kensington Palace for shopping and money to be saved.  Lots of big name chains, including TK Max (TJ Max in US) and The Body Shop.  Head over to Harrod's and window shopping is the do-able form of shopping unless you are in the market for tea, food and Harrod's wine label.  My kind of shopping is at the Spitalfield Market.  Having cut my teeth at $1.49 day at Woodward's as a child in Vancouver and at The Gap Warehouse store in L.A. in the 70's, I have a good eye for a bargain.  In fact, if it isn't a good deal, it just doesn't feel like a huge coup.  

The Sunday Market is good fun, particularly at the end of the day when they are closing up.  Many young designers are peddling their very unique creations and trying to  drum up business for their online ventures.  Others are copying designs of other designers like Desigual, and selling them as their own.  Shoes, jewelry, purses, coats, Lebanese baklava, baking, Turkish delight, vintage buttons, tea, hats - all there "for a very good price".  I managed a sweater, coat, hat, dress, skirt and earrings for under £100.

Trek down to Brick Lane and the area gets seedier and the clientele gets younger.  As well as tea and coffee, there is now also mulled wine and many Indian Food Restaurants.  There are many Vintage Shops and spaces are darker and have a clandestine vibe.  Authenticity of stones, silver, and "valuable" buttons are guaranteed but dubious.  It's the kind of place that evokes Dicken's descriptions of The Artful Dodger.  My kids would LOVE this place.  Next time...

The pièce de résistance was shopping for shoes on the second floor of Selingers.  There is a section for each designer to display and sell their latest collection.   The store is packed with no one seeming to bat an eye at dropping a substantial chunk of change for the latest and greatest addition to their own personal collections.  I'm fairly certain we could solve world hunger on this floor.  Larkyn use to bemoan the day when I would come to buy shoes when she was working in the mall.  Fortunately my girl in the Kurt Geiger Collection was very patient as I worked my way through ultra trendy and très chic shoes before settling on a stylish but  practical and responsible choice.

By departure day, I felt fairly certain that I was safe and could escape prior to any new expenditures.  It was busy when I arrived at Heathrow and the kiosk would not print my baggage tag so I waited quite awhile in line.  I thought I would have just enough time to head for the gate and read.  Interestingly enough, my gate was not posted on the display terminal until boarding time.  Once again I fell victim to the shopping mecca of Heathrow.  This time, one additional bonus was added.  NO VAT, the 20% tax assigned to all merchandise.  Fortunately, although Kurt Geiger and I were good friends, it was extremely difficult ( although not impossible) to get my very popular shoe size.  Although at many airports, there have been an increased adherence to carry on luggage limits, not so at Heathrow.  I arrived my my large purse, backpack, and array of bags and got nothing but smiles.  

Monday, March 25, 2013

Blessing of the Palms, Procession, and Sung Eucharist

Experiencing Worship in the Abbey

Today I got up and braved the cold to go line up at the Big West door of Westminster Abbey to attend the Palm Sunday service.  Several groups of people were willing to do this, including the tourists who arrived on Sunday to discover that The Abbey was only open for worship on Sundays and it was this or nothing.  The second group were tourists who realized they could get in for free if they were attending worship.  The third group were the music enthusiasts who appreciate the quality of the organist, the pipe organ and the choir.  Then there were the people who regularly attend services at home and felt like they should.  The final group were those of us looking to experience the awe inspiring worship in community with other pilgrims.

As a tourist, the first impression is often of the opulence and political nature of organized religion.  Evensong at The Abbey in Bath and Palm Sunday at Westminster Abbey were far more about the reflection on the presence of God.  The pipe organs and the high ceilings create the same sense of smallness that I get being beside the ocean.  The amazing quality of the choir, the beauty of the stained glass windows and the church are so conducive to quiet reflection of those things that matter most to me.  Sharing the experience with people who have come from all over the world who are on the same journey to understand, is just so cool.

This morning, as we entered we were presented with our palm leaf crosses and we gathered in the nave.  The line of people spiraled outside.   Then the choirs of Westminster Abbey and St. Margaret's Church (Westminster Abbey) led us singing All Glory Laud and Honour around the sanctuary, through the Quire Screen and to my seat in the Lantern facing the northern transept with Christ with welcoming hands in the centre of the rosary window.  People continued to fill up the Transepts and the seating area in the nave. The Passion according to Luke (Victoria Missa Laetatus sum Lassus) was sung as was much of the service. As we lined up for communion down into the Quire, I was surrounded on either sound by the choir singing.  Sometimes life is just that good and it evokes the same feeling as when the light is separated by the clouds and it feels like the hand of God.

I was also pleased to discover that half of the collection was directed to a Jewish/ Palestinian peace project.  Evidence of a working a church :). I'm so glad I went

American Presence in London


I have been avoiding Starbucks as the inappropriate extension of American economic imperialism in Europe.  Instead I've been heading to Caffe Nero, the Italian Coffee chain with free WiFi access first thing in the morning while I wait for the others to get ready.  After all, Italy knows far more about coffee than the USA.  Distinctly America feeling in the cafe because in fact it is American.  The difference is it is serving Italian coffee.  Just add that to the McDonalds, KFC, Nando's, the Gap, American Eagle, Banana Republic, and practically every other big American label.  Yet at the end of the day, it does have free WiFi access and great coffee.  Hohum...

Saturday, March 23, 2013

English Cuisine



I think perhaps English food gets a bad rep due the reference to "French Cuisine" and "The Art of Italian dining.". The weather has in every way brought to life, Jane Austen's frequent references to dark and stormy nights, complete with gale force winds and sheeting rain.  In the midst of "the coldest March since the year of my birth," my aunt and I have enjoyed each and every breakfast, tea time, and dinner. 

Having a grandmother with Scottish/ English roots and my fast friend/ mentor with English/ Scottish roots, tea time has been a constant in my life.  After a hello kiss, the kettle was put on.  It has taken me through ordinary visits, grand celebrations and the times of ultimate despair.  With my current administrator, again with similar roots, tea guarantees my passage through each day at work.  Drink tea and Carry On.

In England, they understand that the quality of the tea matters and that the perfect accompaniment is a fresh baked scone.  Add butter, jam and clotted cream and you have a perfect break in a blustery day.  Even little diners pour a lovely spot o'tea.  And to boot, Earl Grey tea is a standard!   What more could you want.

The English Breakfast makes good sense.  You stuff yourself first thing in the morning and then have the entire day to wear it off.  At Henrietta House in Bath, we have had our most amazing breakfasts.  The juice is fresh squeezed or pressed.  There is an option of salted or unsealed butter.  The coffee is French pressed.  You begin by visiting the buffet for a choice of fresh fruit salad or stewed fruit compote, yogurt, croissants, toast, or a lovely little piece of cake.  This is followed up with a selection of 4 or 5 main courses of hot food.  The first morning I stayed with the traditional meal of sausage, bacon, two eggs and mushrooms.  There is something quite reassuring about knowing the farm where the meat comes from.  The second day, I was adventurous and had the omelet with smoked salmon and a lovely sour cream based sauce.

The Traditional English Breakfast is an interesting thing.  The tradition seems to be the two eggs, the sausage and the bacon.  The potatoes, baked beans, mushrooms or ? seem to be defined by the family tradition of the owner of the establishment.  And the prices are decided less than the same meal at Cafe Zen in Kits or anywhere else in Vancouver.   Fortunately for me, I also need to choose between sausage or bacon at home. I'll be rolling off the plane at this rate.

I'm not a grand fan of fries at home.  I eat them but I don't LOVE them.  I do LOVE chips in England.  They are always fresh and don't carry the taste of grease.  The first order of fish and chips that we ordered caught us off guard.  We have grown up eating fish and chips at the beach, but they have never actually looked like a fish in batter!  Who knew?

Hmmm.  Time to eat.  Apparently Harrod's has a nice breakfast.  I'll let you know.

Thursday, March 21, 2013

Off to England for Spring Break 2013

A wonderful adventure for Spring Break started only five days ago, but feels like far longer.  Nothing like the pursuit of new discoveries to bring life into focus with far greater clarity.

My aunt and I arrived in Bath yesterday afternoon to relatively clear skies.  This was fortunate  because our directions to Henrietta House took us in a circuitous route that allowed us to see far more of the city than was necessary with our bags.  We were pleased to discover our B&B  was not just reasonable but delightfully quaint.

Bath has celebrated two great phases in it's history, the discovery of the hot springs and subsequent building by the Romans, then the building to entertains the wealthy and middle classes  in the Georgian times.   Our first stop was Cream Tea for two -  complete with Earl Grey tea,  two scones each, our choice of salted or unsalted butter, jam and devonshire cream.  Then next stop was the thermal baths.

A new thermal spa has recently been built to provide the true experience of what the Romans and English in Georgian times flocked to the area to experience.  You enter for 2 hours, 4 hours, or the entire day.  I paid my £26 to enter for two hours and went to the roof top pool overlooking the city.  Experience with Harrison Hot Springs and Fairmont Hot Springs had me expecting very hot water.  The pools in both the rooftop and indoor pools are kept a little cooler than body temperature, apparently optimal temperature for bathing pools.  My initial thought was that I wouldn't be staying the entire time to float in these pools.  Then I discovered them.

The steam rooms were on the middle level.  Four cylindrical shaped glass steam rooms were lit with four different colours of light in a dim room with a mineral water circular shower in the middle.  The green room was scented with eucalyptus and mint.  The purple room was lotus flower.  The red room was sandalwood.  My very favorite room was scented with lemongrass and ginger.  The rest of the time floated in the process of heating up, cooling down in a pool, in the shower or on the outdoor terrace.  This is what the baths were all about.  The pursuit of complete relaxation.  Something far too elusive in my life.  The good German/ Scottish work ethic has not really allowed for this to fully unfold.  Perhaps I need to live in Bath or take something of Bath home with me.

Today another massive and splendid English breakfast.  The farm that my sausage and bacon came from was cited and the orange/ pear juice was a smoothie of real juice.  We discovered today that Jane Austen was not exaggerating about the windy, cold rain that pelts down in the country.  Our first decision was to buy tickets for the Hop On Hop Off bus rather than take a leisurely stroll through the rain.  We hoped off at the Jane Austen Museum.  Jane Austen is one of my "coping with life strategies".  I have my own well watched dvd's and Netflix for backup to deal with the stressors of life.  So I LOVED the museum and delighted in having Cream Tea once again in the tea room.

We Hopped on to finish our City Tour.   Then it was off to The Roman Baths.  It was like walking into another time.  Yet the whole notion of a current day swimming pool was very much there. NI Loved this quote:

"The picture is not complete without some quarrelsome fellow, a thief caught in the act, or the man who loves the sound of his own voice in the bath- not to mention those who jump in with a tremendous splash."
Seneca
Epistulae Morales, 56
1st century AD

This could be Kits Pool in summer

When we Hopped On the bus again, we headed for the Abbey.  Inadvertently we ended up in a very deserted St. John's Cathedral and were able to explore on our own until closing time.  Very cool.  Then the rector shepherded us out to see the steam train that only comes through town once a week.  A significant event that we needed to witness.

When we did make it to the Abbey, it was in time for Evensong.  Attending church for worship rather than to sightsee brings a difference in perspective.  The voices, the music from the huge pipe organ as well as the beauty of the architecture and the stained glass made for a very moving experience.  Quite perfect in fact.

Our next stop was the oldest